“Couture stirs unsuspected desires and reveals the existence of what we did not know. Isn’t that the role of the avant-garde? To make visible what one does not see. To define, through artistic practice, the longings of a world in the midst of profound transformation.”
Because of the pandemic, last year’s Dior Haute Couture collection was unveiled via an exclusive film directed by Matteo Garrone. In Le Mythe Dior seamstresses created miniature, hand-made versions of dresses that were then presented in a magical forest. The Haute Couture pieces were shown among mermaids, nymphs, and mythological beings. The show was an escape from the real world into a land of magical nature.
After a season of virtual events, Dior is back to its more traditional catwalks. But, the brand hasn’t forgotten the lessons learned last year about creativity and pushing boundaries. Dior’s Cruise 2022 show was an ethereal escape to Athens, with a collection inspired by Greek goddesses and Olympic sports.
Cactus Jack Dior, the Spring-Summer 2022 men’s collection, also transported viewers, this time to Texas. In a vibrant collaboration done with rapper Travis Scott, Dior showed that it is not afraid of the future. The brand, under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri, embraces the evolution in the world of fashion with open arms.
This French brand has revolutionized fashion, from ready-to-wear to haute couture, since its founding in 1946. And, it continues to push boundaries with each new collection. In this show, gold is a central color, and there were some nods to last year’s woodland vibe in the greens and browns featured on the invitation. The sewing on the invitation was a nod to the details and texture of the pieces.
At the Haute Couture fashion show presented today in Paris, materials and fabrics were transformed into monumental forms. The embroidery was like the language of poetry. There were looks in tweeds, textured wool, plaids–materials that speak to us about the textile research, innovative movement, and attitude behind the collection.
Maria Grazia has been very clear: she seeks to return to more a tactile, less virtual reality, which means reinterpreting textiles and taking embroidery a step further–not only as something ornamental but sensory. The massive embroidered work Chambre de Soie by French artist Eva Jospin served as the background of the show, which recalled the Salle aux Broderies in the Colonna Palace in Rome.
Among my favorites from today’s show was a dancer-inspired dress, very much in the Dior aesthetic, with transparent champagne-colored chiffon and a pronounced, romantic neckline. I also loved the black-and-white tweed looks, especially a look that included matching boots and hat, as well as the look with a maxi cape that reminded me of super feminine and glamourous Sherlock Holmes. Two of my other favorites were an oversized coat with feather trim and a look inspired by Dior’s famous ‘New Look’ silhouette, which featured a tweed skirt paired with edgy fishnet sleeves. This show was proof that Dior dares to reinvent itself!