Sensual rebellion disguised as sweetness. Emilio Pucci’s collection for Spring 22 is full of the adventurous aristocratic soul of its founder.
Pucci is one of the most legendary brands in Italy. It was founded in 1947 by Emilio Pucci, who wanted to capture the free-spirited lifestyle of the jet-set crowd in every garment he designed. He wanted to reflect a feeling of lightness and joy for life, in which the most important thing is living to the fullest in a spontaneous way and without a care in the world. This philosophy is reflected in each of the collections that the brand has presented. Over the years, we have seen different creative directors take the helm of the brand–Christian Lacroix, Matthew Williamson, Peter Dundas, Massimo Giorgetti–but since 2017, Emilio Pucci has been under the vision of the in-house team, with the exception of a few collaborations with designers like Tomo Koizumi and Christelle Kocher, who have turned to the brand’s historical archives for inspiration.
Emilio Pucci’s collection for Spring ‘22 is a sea of pastel hues infused and understated architectural silhouettes that create a minimalist aesthetic. Mint, apricot, and yellow are some of the colors in the collection’s perfectly-made pants, dresses, blouses, and scarves. We saw pleated silk maxi dresses with prints influenced by Arab cultures in a combination of brown, pearl, and canary tones. Then, there were more structured items such as A-line minidresses with a deep V-necks in white or overalls in electric green. Overall, it was a line of clothing that embraces the female silhouette, enhances women’s natural curves, and offers transparencies that play with the illusion of nudity–all with the intention of creating that subtle air of sensuality that has been part of Pucci’s DNA since its founding.
The brand’s love for prints is still present in many garments. Abstract shapes come together in fabrics full of life and color. The look with the bandeau top and miniskirt with a pattern with shapes of small stones in orange, yellow and green eminded me of the mosaics of the famous Park Güell in Barcelona. We also saw different garments in which textile panels in various shapes and colors–brown, pink, and green–created abstract prints and at the same time gave transparency and depth. Then, there was embroidery on silk lace creating geometric shapes. The spirit of the “Prince of prints,” a name that Emilio Pucci earned for his expertise in the use of prints–lives on in this collection.
Pucci gave us an enigmatic world in which the past was reborn in clothing for a modern world. There were clear allusions to the brand’s historical archives and silhouettes, but with a fresher take that adapts to the aesthetics and tastes of the younger generations. The years that Pucci has been without a creative director have reminded us of the grandeur that made Emilio Pucci the epitome of luxury and elegance. That aura of sophistication and freedom of the Pucci muse of the ‘60s lives on in each of the garments in this collection.
Emilio Pucci’s Spring 22 collection serves as the segue into the era of Creative Director Camille Miceli. Emilio Pucci is ready to flourish and grow into a fashion brand that captures the energy and happiness that the world so desperately needs: a kaleidoscopic universe of joy, optimism, and freedom.