The wait is over! The Fendi Spring/Summer 2021 Haute Couture Collection finally made its debut this morning at Palais Brongniart in Paris. The show was open by Demi Moore and closed by Delfina Delettrez and Leoneta Fendi. We were able to see during the event iconic models like Naomi Campbell, Bella Hadid, Cara Delevingne, Christy Turlington, Adwoa Aboah, Kate, and Lila Moss. And among all of them the main highlight: artistic director Kim Jones, newly appointed for couture and womenswear for the Roman luxury house stepping into the role that Karl Lagerfeld held for 54 years.
This was not only Fendi’s first Haute Couture collection ever, as on previous years they had been presenting Haute Fourrure, but also Jones’ debut with a full women´s collection and couture. Today’s show had an overall theme of romantic androgyny inspired in Virginia Woolf’s book Orlando and the Bloomsbury area in London. Personally, I love to dress up and also love the theatrical side of fashion, especially with couture. With that being mentioned, it is the main reason why I highly enjoyed the Fendi collection and the Charlestonians references Kim Jones used. I certainly believe that he managed to translate this idea of a new romance into art combining punk with beauty.
The set was impressive! A dreamlike world where models walked with purpose down a foggy runway while surrounded by a maze of glass boxes, each representing the essence of a home, fit with tres and marble carpet. It contrasted a quite modern aesthetic with more classic and romantic vibes.
The collection shown déshabillé draped dresses flowed with liquidity and regal fluidity, they were presented with hand embroidery and marble-like adornments. A truly breathtaking fabric technique by the Couture ateliers that shined through several pieces including magnificent capes, tailored jackets, and flowing dresses. My favorite looks included a chiffon gown with cristal embroidery and a light cape, all in sumptuous deep grey. Also a see-through gown in white with a long cape embroidered with pearls. And finally, a white bride gown with bell sleeves and an amazing fit to the curves of the feminine body.
When an element in the collection wasn’t gliding by romantically, it was strongly tailored and structured. I think this is mainly because Jones’s background is in menswear, a very clever move for the Fendi powerhouse! I am really excited and looking forward to witnessing what else this new appointment brings to fashion.