One of the most invigorating weeks of the year and indeed, the one that requires more hand-made hours. Due to the Covid-19 restrictions, a lot of the presentations will be shown virtually, but without jeopardizing the appeal or creativity.
Artistic director, Daniel Roseberry presented the Schiaperelli Haute Couture SS21 collection trough a digital lookbook. This would be his third collection with the French maison, and it’s a clear challenge to the idea of what couture is, and what it should be. Roseberry creates clothes that respect the tradition of the house, including the artistry behind it, while at the same time he explodes the meaning of Haute Couture. This collection is a tribute to the craft-ship work behind the magic, and the magic itself. Please don’t miss out the accessories! The details on them are completely amazing!
Daniel Roseberry mentioned that he wanted to take pieces that aren’t “supposed” to be shown in this context—pants, for example; a bomber jacket—and invite people to see them anew. The techniques, too, are unexpected: a pair of blouson leather pants has an elastic waist; a pair of denim jeans is reimagined in stone washed silk duchess and embellished with dangling gold padlocks. The fabrics are equally inventive and disruptive: along with over-dyed silk faille, molded leather, and crisp dry hand taffeta, there’s also silk-velvet bonded to neoprene, and a column gown draped in sinuous silk jersey.
Another must collection to review during this first day of Haute Couture is Iris Van Herpen, the Dutch creative established craftsmanship and collaborations with science and architecture fields. Her artful, hybrid emphasis on innovation with natural forms produced some of the very first 3D-printed garments, as well as her signature looks made from unexpected materials, such as resin, silicone, metal lace, and acrylic mesh, often boasting the old-world craft of hand-embroidered detail.
For this SS21 Haute Couture collection, the organic shapes, structures, and movements from nature combined with futuristic technologies make it truly visionary. She even collaborated with Parley for the Oceans to include recycled plastics in sustainable materials. You can tell nature’s influence in several pieces, including one personal favorite, a blue gown with one asymmetrical sleeve that reminds me of the deep blue ocean. The light chiffon moves like waves and foam.
Van Herpen search for inspiration in Entangled Life, a book by Merlin Sheldrake about how fungi sustain life on Earth, and her use of pleating can tell how much it touched her creative process. “This underground system it’s an idea that especially moved me,” said Van Herpen, “because I think the last year has been, for me, and I guess all of us, [one] of isolation and separation. And of course it’s really beautiful to look at nature and how nature connects in a very similar way [to] how we communicate.”
Last but not least, is Giambattista Valli collection, the Italian designer incorporated styles from the 1960s’ and 70s’ with a touch of Spaniard influence. Lots of volume, tulle and attitude, Valli takes fashion connoisseurs on a journey of introspection in a time when travel is impossible. Something that I personally appreciate as I love to travel, especially to Spain to be with my family.
With two red looks of immense volume, one with tulle and the other with taffeta ruffles, both evoke boldness and emotion. A very 17th century white blouse with bell sleeves accompanying black tulle with a satin bodice for the dress is a nod to a bygone era, with gold embroidery craftsmanship.
Something that caught my attention was the hairdos with bows very much inspired in Sevilla and the rejoneadores. Also, the masks with the satin flowers were exquisite! They remind me of Venice Carnival. Maybe it’s just my eager desire to finally be able to travel! In the meantime, we have Haute Couture to dream and transport ourselves to infinitive destinations.
As you can see, today was a very busy day! But it was just day one of one my favorite seasons, so please stay tuned because I’m sure tomorrow I’ll a lot more to tell you abut this SS21 Haute Couture!