The madness of Fashion Month continues with a third stop at Milan Fashion Week. The first day of Italian fashion week has begun and it looks like we’re off to a good start.
Milan is the third stop on the Fashion Month circuit, in which editors, influencers, celebrities and fashion lovers travel the world to discover the new collections from different designers. This time around, we’re seeing the Fall 22 collections. We’ve already been to New York and London, and we’re almost in the final stretch. Milan Fashion Week started today, and like everything Italians do, they went big.
Italian fashion has always been characterized by a touch of relaxed elegance. When we think of Italian glamour, we think of images full of sensuality and opulence. Established in 1958 by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Milan Fashion Week is one of the most important parts of the circuit, featuring some of the industry’s greatest designers. Milan is a whirlwind of glamorous people in amazing outfits running through the cobbled streets trying to get to the next show. There is nothing quite like Milan Fashion Week!
There were two collections that stood out and caught my attention among the those that were shown today on the first day of Milan Fashion Week.
For this Roman brand, legacy and history have always played an important role. That is why Kim Jones was the right choice for Creative Director. The English designer is fascinated with the history of fashion. This quality has led him to look for inspiration in Fendi’s archives. It is there where we find what has made the firm the bastion of elegance that we know today. For the brand’s Fall 22 collection, Jones took inspiration form Delfina Delettrez, who came into the atelier one day in a piece that belonged to her mother, Silvia Venturini Fendi, in the eighties. This blouse from the 1986 collection designed by Karl Lagerfeld was the cornerstone for Kim’s collection, but it’s not just a remake of something we’ve already seen. The designer merged the Memphis aesthetic of the eighties with the silhouettes that we saw in the Fendi collections in 2000.
We saw clear references to both inspirations in the collection presented during this edition of Milan Fashion Week. The ’80s print inspired by the Memphis art and design movement – a playful, outrageous geometric print – got updated with a tonal shift, in which vibrant colors were replaced by muted pastel hues. The silhouettes of the 80s gave way to those of the early aughts—structured forms with aspects of masculine tailoring. That said, a touch of feminine sensuality was certainly present in transparencies and flowing fabrics. It’s interesting to see how Fendi’s Fall 22 collection has a retro feel to it and a nod to the past, without becoming a cliché. We’re not seeing the same remixed designs from another era or aesthetic from the past but something new and interesting.
“What interests me the most about fashion is when it isn’t something just for the moment and with Fendi, that is always the case,” Silvia commented. I really liked this, since this is what designers should aim to achieve: making designs that aren’t just a passing fad but symbols of luxury and style for all of eternity. And as the designer said, Fendi is and will always be synonymous with elegance. This collection has that spirit of timelessness. Each garment we saw on the runway seemed to exist outside of time–pieces that will look just as beautiful tomorrow as they do today.
We saw sumptuous mohair and shearling over silk chiffon outfits that were almost transparent, revealing the female form underneath. There were also looks in which masculinity collided with femininity: cropped suit jackets and white cotton shirts tucked under corset rompers. There were looks that combined leather corsets with wide-leg jeans or fur boleros and transparent silk lingerie dresses with cashmere gloves. Each outfit that came down the catwalk was about the duality femininity and masculinity.
Bravo, Kim. Bravo, Sylvia. Bravo, Delphine. Bravo, Fendi!
This designer, born in Cattolica, Italy has managed to captivate the world with her designs full of elegance and grandeur, imbued with that Italian soul that manages to give off a light, fresh. and casual feel. All this Italian glamor has stolen the hearts of the most elegant women in Hollywood, and the brand is a favorite among actresses like Uma Thurman, Meryl Streep, Julia Roberts, and Nicole Kidman. They love the expertise and craftsmanship behind each of the designs that Alberta Ferretti creates. Perfection has become synonymous with each of the brand’s collections, from 1981 to the present.
The Fall 22 collection that we saw from Alberta Ferretti was a sea of ideas that merged into a collection of beautiful garments. Each look brought to mind a different reference: gaucho culture from Patagonia, the disco years of the infamous late 70’s, and the elegance of the 40’s. This collection was a mixture of different aesthetics, but with a common denominator: strong, self-confident women. It seems that each of the outfits that we saw walking down the catwalk was designed for a modern femme fatale – that archetypal movie character, an enigmatic, mysterious, sensual woman who goes out into the world and conquers it. It is not surprising that Alberta Ferretti was inspired by Hollywood. Each of the designs from the brand possesses the same level of luxury and fantasy as the big screen’s best films.
From the very first look – a fur-lined leather jacket over a silver knit sweater paired with wool pants and a wide-brimmed hat – that we saw on the runway we saw the spirit of strength and femininity of the modern woman. Wrapped in an air of mystery, each one of the outfits told us a story of a new kind of femininity, for which clothing is like armor. The collection was full of sensual details that delighted like sequins, lace, fur, silk, satin, wool, feathers, and leather— textiles that turn the experience of dressing into a sensory pleasure. It’s a collection full of opulence, without being exaggerated or over the top. Alberta Ferretti gave us timeless garments that manage to capture the spirit of the times, in which we appreciate the little things in life.
Alberta Ferretti has taught us that the world is a stage and all of us are actors upon it. What better to participate in this play than as a brave woman who faces the world, showing her strength and femininity at the same time? The Fall 22 collection from this brand strikes the perfect balance between luxury and modernity.