During the third day of MFW fashion shows we got to witness the drastic evolution of the Blumarine woman and the return of Moschino to this Italian city in a display of Jeremy Scott’s irreverent and indisputable talent.
Moschino did it again! Jeremy Scott took us on a fun, quirky, and very chic journey with his Fall-Winter 2011723 collection. It was a journey in which living became synonymous with getting dressed. Decorative items were transformed into wearable pieces with that hyper-surreal touch that has always characterized the brand. While the brand presented its Spring/Summer 2022 collection as part of New York Fashion Week, it came back to Italy with its first show in Milan since 2020, and it was full of fun and whimsy.
The historical archives of the brand served as inspiration for Scott, as did antiques and the work of filmmaker Stanley Kubrick. The models, among whom were Gigi and Bella Hadid, MariaCarla Boscono, Taylor Hill, and Adut Akech, walked to the rhythm of opera music, bringing us into an elegant and surreal world. The opening of the show featured a trio of ’90s-inspired pieces adorned with chunky gold hardware…very Moschino. Scott then gave us a variety of sculptural gowns and other garments.
The idea was very clear–inspiration taken from the furniture of a Louis XIV-style house. There were headpieces that looked like lampshades, drapey dresses that brought to mind tapestry, embroidered silver pieces, and garments in the shape of harps. There were humorous phrases such as ‘Maid in Italy’ and ‘Gilt not Guilt’ printed on tight minidresses.
Not only did Scott play with nostalgic references, he brought in an element of futurism (many silhouettes were reminiscent of retro sci-fi styles) and called the collection: ‘A Space Opulence’. As if the runway show wasn’t enough, Scott greeted the crowdwearing a bright red spacesuit.
Blumarine also presented at Milan Fashion Week today. After five collections as creative director, Nicola Brognano was inspired by the German photographer Helmut Newton. In the collection, you could see his evolution and audacity. Taking inspiration from eroticism, the collection was very sensual, showing us that the Blumarine woman has grown up.
The collection was worn by a diverse cast of models of ages and body types, reflecting the reality of the industry and its consumers. Among the models and celebrities who walked the runway were Lila Grace Moss, Chloe Cherry from Euphoria, and Mini Anden. Microdresses were fitted with strategic draping that increased the sexiness of the pieces.
We saw a very bold palette of black, red, and purple–very different from the pastel tones that fans of Bluemarine are used to. What a pleasant surprise! There were also new shapes in the collection, coats with excellent tailoring and a catsuit in black patent leather with an integrated corset. This collection showed us the evolution of the Blumarine girl–from girly and feminine to a strong, sexy woman, who owns her body and power.
XO
Sira