We saw new codes of seduction in the Sportmax collection for the upcoming season. Jackets with sculpted shoulders, openings, and dizzying necklines were the protagonists of the catwalk.
A provocative presentation that marked the new way of power dressing.
A few hours ago, the Sportmax Fall-Winter show ended in Milan. This season, Grazia Malagoli opted for bright colors and stern silhouettes, which, intertwined with each other, created contrasting and incredibly beautiful images. The collection is a manifesto of empowerment, the deconstruction of the femme fatale and the definition of new sex symbols. The collection explored the three golden decades of power dressing: the 1940s with the hourglass jacket, the 1980s with exaggerated shoulders and pencil skirts, and the 1990s with an androgynous and minimalist aesthetic.
The collection included coats with pronounced and structured shoulders, which created a triangle shape due to the narrow waists, fitted shirts, pencil skirts, masculine suits, dresses with angular cuts, ultra short pants and asymmetrical jumpsuits; all in a basic, serene palette. The looks were complemented by neon gloves that covered only the fingers, as well as metallic bracelets that added even more glamour.
There were looks in super-stretch materials that stuck to the models like a second skin. The show reminded me of the work of photographer Guy Bourdin with its high level of eroticism inspiring surprising necklines, smart cut-outs, and form-fitting silhouettes. The garments contained hidden structures, including reinterpretations of bodices and padding, that enhanced the female silhouette.
The color palette featured plenty of black, navy blue, browns, and nude tones, contrasted with flashes of fuchsia, red, and fluorescent accents. The materials ranged from typical tailoring fabrics to leather and luminescent rhinestones. Among my favorite looks was a pencil skirt combined paired with a military shirt and tie like a fetishized uniform. Another look I loved was a set of pants with pronounced shoulder pads top that looked masculine and sexy. Lastly, I loved the tight lavender dress with asymmetrical sleeves embroidered with sequins and with a long slit down the leg. The looks were complemented with jewelry with ancestral references and shoes with hyper-spike heels. This collection invites seduction.