Design and luxury tailoring go hand in hand to create garments that speak in elegance, volume, and materials.
Gigi Hadid opened the Tod’s show in a stark black coat and pantsuit, reflecting creative director Walter Chiapponi’s goal of delivering a sleek, polished, and stern look for fall. Behind his inspiration for this latest collection, presented today during Milan Fashion Week, was existentialism and the impact of recent news as well as the fallout from the pandemic.
This doesn’t mean that the pieces were boring. the Italian brand gave us a runway show full of fabrics that were sumptuous to the touch and gorgeous to the eye. These layered garments gave off a feel comfort for a winter’s day. Chiapponi also gave us some color: brown tones reminiscent of one of the brand’s trademarks…leather.
Slim ’90s silhouettes were contrasted with exquisitely crafted coats, jackets, and capes. The collection was a modernized re-vamping of iconic Italian beauty. Design and luxury tailoring went hand in hand to create garments that speak in elegance, volume, and materials.
One of my favorite looks was a black skirt suit paired with a classic white shirt. I loved the brooch detail on the collar and the riding style boots. Another set I fell in love with was a camel leather total look with a long skirt and matching blazer. There were other cozier looks I liked, too, like the matching baggy pants and teddy bear jacket as well as a turtleneck knit dress paired with an XXL jacket that was a true work of knitwear art. Finally, I enjoyed the looks that included trench coats or the black wool cape with fringe.
Chiapponi reinvented the Di Bag–made famous by Lady Diana–unstructured and transformed into an easy to carry suitcase for jet set clientele. The W.G. bootie got reinvented with new proportions, and the T Timeless bags kept their precise geometric structures. Ultimately, the designer has been perfecting a specific look for Tod’s and this collection was one of his best, with a clear and well-executed visión. One of my favorite MFW collections!