Today is the first day of New York Fashion Week. All eyes in the industry will be on the Big Apple over the next few days as designers present their Fall 22 collections.
It’s that time again in the four fashion capitals of the world. Fashion Month is here, and as usual, the first stop is New York. Today, on Friday, February 11th, the runway shows started and we saw some of the designers Fall ‘22 collections. New York Fashion Week is—and has been, for the last year–a mix of presentations, fashion shows, and digital releases. Without a doubt, the creativity with which the brands show their collections increases each season.
The first day of New York Fashion Week saw one-on-one presentations from brands like Helmut Lang, whose collection combined the brand’s minimalist style with textiles like wool and shearling. We also saw the presentations of the men’s collections from brands like Perry Ellis, Stan, Clara Son, and The Academy. It was an exciting day, in which we are just beginning to feel the rush of New York Fashion Week. Today there were two collections that really caught my attention and that I’d like to comment on more!
This brand has been characterized by its ultra sexy designs–bodycon silhouettes that highlight the beauty of feminine curves and result in garments full of sensuality and seduction.
This collection was full of knitwear garments–pants, crop-tops, skirts and sweaters. These were designs that enveloped and adapted to the female silhouette like a second skin. The collection had all the DNA of Hervé Leger but with a refreshing twist for new generations. We saw red biker shorts with turtleneck sweaters and pink gloves, pistachio sweaters with matching long skirts, bondage-inspired black crop-tops, and maxi dresses with fringes that gave the garments amazing fluidity. This is a new era for the brand in which the super sexy aesthetic of its designs merges with the youthful spirit of athleisure and normcore.
With a vibrant color palette of energizing yellow and red tones with pistachio green and watermelon pinks paired with more nuetrals hues like black, white, and nude, we saw a ton of versatility of the brands garments. This seemed to reflect the evolution of the firm towards the future, all while respecting the vision of its founder.
The spirit of the presentation was relaxed and cheerful. The models walked around the room while the guests enjoyed themselves and chatted about the brand’s latest designs while the lookbook was presented. This was a different way of presenting a collection, but it was interesting because Hervé Leger opened the doors to a behind-the-scenes universe that is usually hidden from the eyes of spectators.
This American firm arrived on the scene in 2002, and it was a success starting with the first look that came down the catwalk. All the it-girls at the beginning of the new millennium wanted to wear Proenza Schouler. The creative duo behind the firm, Jack McCollough and Lázaro Hernández, have, since last season, managed to recapture the spirit of the brand. Today’s runway show was one of the most anticipated of the season.
We saw garments in asymmetrical silhouettes–staple pieces like jackets, shirts, trench coats and dresses were given an unexpected twist with their new cuts and silhouettes. Continuing in its spirit of minimalism, but introducing some maximalism, we saw garments with simple lined but layered for more texture. These layers were like a kind of armor for the woman facing the struggles of the modern world–from mini dresses with peplums and pants to maxi bags combined with mini bags. The collection spoke to the aesthetics that have characterized the firm since its beginning, and each garment was functional but without sacrificing the high design behind it. We saw a fresh take on quotidian garments.
The color palette was full of neutral tones, like chocolate brown, caramel, and mocha. We also way garments in black and military green paired with white shirts. Then there were accents in lilac, electric blue, canary yellow, and fiery red.
Undoubtedly, this was a collection of spectacular garments that adapt to the lifestyle of anyone who loves this brand. Proenza Schouler has managed to create a runway in which we could see the style of the new generations mixed with the aesthetics of the brand’s regular clientele. This has resulted in a new era at the hands of Jack and Lazaro, who made it clear they are not going anywhere.