The Spring 22 Saint Laurent collection is universe full of power, sensuality, and enigma. Anthony Vaccarello once again wowed everyone with ultra-feminine and chic silhouettes.
A Saint Laurent runway is always full of surprises, starting with the location of the show, which in this case looked more like a concert hall than a catwalk. After a few seasons, this legendary French brand is finally back in the City of Lights, and I must say things are feeling normal again. Since 2018, Anthony Vaccarello decided that the backdrop of his collections was going to be the iconic Eiffel Tower. “I want to tell the story of Saint Laurent, of Paris—nothing more deeply than that, ” he said, and he has achieved his goal with every collection; each one of them celebrates the legendary heritage of Yves Saint Laurent and his creative mind.
For Yves Saint Laurent, clothing should make a woman feel strong, powerful, and self-confident. The designer said it himself: “Chanel freed women, and I empowered them.” And, there are thousands of examples that support these words. The designs of this creative genius broke down gender barriers by including masculine garments in a woman’s wardrobe, infusing the way women dressed with an aura of sensuality, and exalting women—not for the male gaze—but as divine beings. And, it is this same spirit of sensuality, power, and freedom that we saw reflected in the Spring 22 collection by Saint Laurent.
La Fontaine du Trocadéro was once again transformed into the brand’s runway. We could see the energy and strength of the designer’s muse; each of the outfits reminded me of the enigmatic Grace Jones and the iconic poster from the singer’s 1981 Nightclubbing Record Tour album, in which Jones is smoking a cigarette in a black jacket with shoulder pads. This image transmits strength, sensuality, power, and femininity–all elements rooted in Saint Laurent’s DNA. From the jewel-colored tights (sapphire, amethyst, ruby) to the pronounced silhouettes of the jackets with shoulder pads or the leather dress with oversized sleeves, everything pointed to the style that Grace Jones popularized in the eighties and nineties. And, this is no surprise because Grace Jones perfectly represents the Saint Laurent woman: strong, fearless, and authentic. The pieces in this collection convey exactly that mood; they speak of a multifaceted and tenacious woman.
Each of the outfits in this collection is the perfect personification of the femme fatale, a strong woman who ventures into the world of men and triumphs, who reappropriates her sexuality and femininity to get what she wants. This is the woman we saw coming down the Saint Laurent Spring 22 runway.
I am in love with the whole collection! First, we have to talk about the jumpsuits. (I want one of every color!). They are simply perfect: they way they wrap the body, the electrifying colors (blue, purple, red, black, white), the way they enhance natural beauty. Another look that caught my attention was the electric orange dress with shoulder pads and XL sleeves that created an oversized silhouette. This look was paired with jewels in sapphire, silver, and gold tones to elevate the elegance and glamor of the look. I loved the two-piece tailored suit with large gold buttons and flared trousers, a modern representation of the powerful women of the nineties. And, the combination with the red leather gloves made this look very memorable.
We were also able to see some Spanish inspiration in the collection, not only in the background music but also in elements of the pieces themselves like the floral print jumpsuits or XL roses on black catsuits, clear references to flamenco culture. There was also that black-and-white polka dot print that reminded us of Basque culture and its passion for dance and life. Joie de vivre is part of Saint Laurent—a free, adventurous spirit that enjoys life to the fullest.
The collection was full of references to the past but that were so well interpreted they were hard to catch at first. However, in certain silhouettes and patterns, we could see the soul of Yves Saint Laurent. Each look in the Saint Laurent Spring 22 collection is the embodiment of a confident, cosmopolitan, and sexually liberated woman who is not afraid to be her true self.