Valentino Haute Couture, Spring-Summer 2021
Today, Pierpaolo Piccioli debuted his latest show for the Valentino house, titled Code Temporal Spring 2021. For his last Haute Couture show, the designer created a multimedia experience that included a film by Nick Knight and models made their way through the Sala Grande of the Galleria Colonna in Rome. I loved the fact that captions were shown in order to identify the model and what she was wearing, the people who made it as well as additional information.
Rather that having the traditional red Valentino conquering the collection, we were able to appreciate a more experimental palette of yellows, oranges, shocking pinks and strong accents of gold. For me, it seemed that Pier Paolo wanted to portray the current times and adapt them to a more “wearable” Haute Couture.
Big, bold boxy top layers revealed softer, less structured pieces underneath. It felt like a couture approach to clothing you’d daily wear. Imagine loose-fit trousers, breezy Bermuda shorts, light dresses and slouchy sleeveless vests. I personally loved this down-to-earth approach to the most exclusive genre of fashion.
Mentioning the above, does not mean that glamour lacked. By no means. There was a lot of embellishment motifs such as iridescent sequins, rose appliqués and slick elbow–length gloves. A series of perforated coats and skirts embodied the feat of craftsmanship mixed with wearability that couture customers gravitate towards. A fully bejeweled top with Bermuda shorts and high boots in fuchsia was my favorite look. So modern yet chic!
Another personal favorite was a cashmere coat fully covered in gold lurex fringe contrasted with a yellow set of pants and knit sweater. Some of the big, shapely skirts towards the end of the presentation were crafted out of a scuba fabric, made with a mix of organza and taffeta. There was even a cashmere-lined oversized hoodie in the mix — featuring a gold lamé shell. This is couture!