With the last shows of Paris Fashion Week, we’re saying farewell with some truly inspiring shows. Both Schiaparelli and Giambattista Valli presented collections that take cues from art, from the surreal to the sublime.
Schiaparelli’s Spring/Summer 2022 collection was based, once again, in Elsa Schiaparelli’s love for the surreal. As with previous Daniel Roseberry installments, the stars of this season’s collection were the accessories, with the models showing off gold-plated bibs and jewel-encrusted pendants. Even the bags were adorned with sparkly eye and lip features.
Erasing the borders between people and their garments is essential to this collection: proof of this was the gold and red nail art by Huberte Cesarion that the models were wearing. As you know, one of my favorite accessories is hats, and Schiaparelli gave us some interesting face-framing silhouettes and full coverage ones with art by René Magritte.
Elsa Schiaparelli’s surreal aesthetic reminds us that more is always more. The more daring her couture-worthy creations have become, the more celebrities want to wear them. “People are coming to us as an alternative to the mass luxury houses,” Roseberry said. “They’re looking for something really strong.” And this is precisely what we saw today at the Place Vendôme, which was organized by themed rooms, one of which was bijoux.
Among my favorites was an inflatable black leather bolero and matching belt, as well as an inflatable parka with air valves, a fitted knit dress with raised details imitating Salvador Dalí’s famous “rib” dress; and a cone bra a la Gaultier. I also loved the cocktail dresses; they were very reminiscent of the brand’s haute couture creations. I espeically like the draped black silk dresses with matching gold chokers.
Also of note today was the Giambattista Valli show at the Musée d’Art Moderne in Paris. The Spring/Summer 2022 collection was a work of art in and of itself. The color palette of bright hues and pastels beautifully highlighted the embroidery and floral prints, instantly transporting us to a crisp spring day straight out of a Matisse painting.
I loved the off-white, bubblegum, and mint mini skirts and dresses, adorned with ruffles and tulle–a very flirty, feminine vibe perfect for a spring picnic, garden party, or daytime wedding. Elegant tailoring and matching colors highlighted the importance of having fun without sacrificing the appeal of a superbly tailored garment.
All the pieces had a lot of movement thanks to ruffles, tulle, and feathers; whether maxis or minis, they felt youthful, fresh, and optimistic. One of my favorites was a floor-length dress with spaghetti straps, in coral, full of ruffles, and also a more minimalist minidress in pale pink and red with a sixties aesthetic and sexy cutouts. In addition to party and cocktail dresses, there were tweed vests, blazers, embroidered blouses, and tailored sets with skirts and pants, ideal for day-to-day wear.
Ultimately, Giambattista’s romantic vision felt so summery it reminded us how a bit of floral embroidery and pastel colors can instantly transport us to warmer seasons. I loved this glamorous and feminine collection.