We are approaching the final stretch of Fashion Month, the fifth day of Paris Fashion Week is here, and we saw incredible Fall 22 collections.
We’re still on the adventure of Fashion Month, we have seen incredible collections that have allowed us to dream, reflect, and fall in love. Paris Fashion Week is the last stop on this world fashion tour, and I must confess that the City of Light has once again shown us why it’s known as the fashion capital of the world. There were shows full of incredible outfits, streets full of paparazzi, and simply a feeling in the air that filled us with excitement.
On day number five of Paris Fashion Week, we saw collections that took a trip to the past in search of inspiration, collections that have shown Aus that we must smile and think positively, collections made up of incredibly well made clothing. Paris Fashion Week is weaving a story through thread, buttons, textiles, and sequins, a story that invites us all to look to a brighter tomorrow.
Founded in 1932, the Nina Ricci brand is one of the most feminine in the world. Her designs have always been synonymous with lightness, subtlety, and ethereal beauty. Nina Ricci has been characterized by her understanding of the needs of women, so, each of her collections is full of garments that adapt to the life of today’s woman. In March the firm announced the departure of its Creative Directors, Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh, leaving the internal team in charge of the Fall 22 collection. The collection presented during this edition of Paris Fashion Week by Nina Ricci is not a bridge of transition, but a new beginning.
In a video, the French brand opens the doors to its legendary atelier. We get to learn more about the Fall 22 collection entitled “Faces.” The collection tells us about new beginnings. The video speaks of romance, dreams, and goals, the models tell us stories from their childhood and analyze what is courage, logic and passion? A film full of that French joie de vivre, that attitude full of positivism. The presentation of the Nina Ricci collection makes you smile, it makes you happy. The Fall 22 collection is one of many faces, of a multifaceted woman; she is young and mature at the same time, cheerful and bold, avant-garde and elegant. All the spirit that characterized its founder, Nina Ricci, comes to life once again in this collection. Where we see that passionate and feminine spirit but not in clichés and stereotypes. We see a collection full of modern, youthful, fresh romanticism.
Plaid print cape coats hide pink cashmere turtlenecks and wool mini skirts paired with gray cashmere gloves and neon green knee-high boots. It’s an image that speaks to us of a retro and futuristic aesthetic at the same time. This is how Nina Ricci’s outfits ax|re, a clear inspiration in the 60s, the feeling of freedom and happiness of the time returns in each piece in the collection. But it’s not just a collection that borrows its aesthetic from a bygone era. It has managed to capture the spirit of a decade and bring it into 2022. We saw a mini skirt in red patent leather paired with a caped puffer jacket at the same fiery tone and contrast with vibrant yellow boots, to finish off the look a pair of oversize PVC sunglasses—as if out of a Sci-Fi movie. Modernist and playful is how I would describe each of Nina Ricci’s new creations.
Nina Ricci is in a time of transition. But just as her film of her says, the destination is as important as the route you take to get there. That’s why I love this collection, as it is totally different from what we have seen from the brand in the past, but at the same time it has all the DNA of Nina Ricci. It is fresh, feminine, and fun. If Nina Ricci is embarking on a new adventure, why not enjoy the ride?
Seven months ago, Vetements revealed its most recent project: a new line named VTMNTS, that would talk of the the expertise and tailoring of the world of luxury into a new language that the new generations would understand. VTMNTS was presented as an option for the youngest creative minds in which the garments shine not because of the logo or the label but because of the quality of the materials, the technique and the clothing. High quality clothing is one of the ways to become more sustainable, a piece that will last for many years is the new luxury. That is the philosophy behind this new brand, the Vetements creative collective wants fashion to be more democratic and conscious, they invite us to be more authentic and less flashy.
Despite being a separate brand from Vetements, VTMNTS continues to possess certain elements of the original brand’s celebrated DNA. In this new design universe, all garments are genderless, a concept that is becoming more of a status quo than a trend. The younger generations, to whom this firm speaks, do not see gender in clothing and that gives us a beautiful and original visual aesthetic. But unlike Vetements, at VTMNTS we see more grounded garments, mega oversized silhouettes shrunk to create more functional garments. We moved away a bit from the universe of hoodies and t-shirts, to enter the world of the masculine sartorial. We saw two-piece suits with XL shoulder pads that framed male and female silhouettes, distorting the human figure a bit. We saw wool coats in different shades – royal blue, clay, gray, and black – and quilted trench coats, a clear influence from Savile Row creations but with a modern take.
But the fact that we are seeing garments like these does not mean that the brand has lost its love for the urban streetwear that positioned them in the universe of luxury. We see elements like puffer jackets superimposed on jackets of the same color but that, being a different material, get different hue. We also saw denim in pants, jackets and shirts–varsity jackets in oversized silhouettes and tracksuits in gem tones like amethyst or emerald.
In this second collection, VTMNTS brings all the irreverent spirit of the brand to a more chic and elegant universe. Its designs show maturity and a higher degree of refinement. VTMNTS may be a brand designed for the younger generation but the direction they are taking design wise shows us that they can become the uniform of choice for fashion lovers, fans who have accompanied them since the launch of the first collection of the firm in 2013. VTMNTS, as its name suggests, reminds us that its business is clothing.
This French designer is considered one of the great voices of the new generation of designers in the industry. She has had a great career. She has worked with and learned from great names in the industry like Sarah Burton, Raf Simons, and Demna Gvasalia. At her young age, 31, she has managed to conquer critics and win awards, among which we find the LVMH Prize in 2015. Yes, today Marine Serre is behind some of the most desired and photographed garments in the street style.
Like all great minds of the younger generations, for Marine Serre, fashion is not only a matter of status and luxury. A garment goes beyond its functionality and aesthetics, it must be something that is also helping to make the world a better place. Throughout her collections since 2018, she has shown her commitment to the environment by using recycled fabrics to create each look. This is a common denominator for newcomers in the fashion industry. She gives us unisex garments so all genders can use them. Marine Serre’s garments aim to be perfect for any type of body.
Marine Serre’s Fall 22 collection is full of maximalist garments. We see the stamp of the designer, combining different prints in a single look. We saw influences from British fashion thanks to tartan prints, but not looking stuffy or royal but rebellious and punk spirit. This punk aesthetic gave way to more bizarre and flashy outfits, with more urban prints and finally subtle and delicate flowers. The evolution of the prints was a reflection of the same eclectic designs that we find in the collection.
Each outfit we saw has a unique soul, each was independent, but at the same time there was an intrinsic connection between them. But this is a characteristic that Marine Serre has been cultivating from the beginning. The brand has been distinguished by that mix & match of aesthetics. It is a brand made for cool kids, for those who march to the beat of their own drum no matter what the world says.