Another day in the incredible whirlwind that is Paris Fashion Week. Today we saw great collections from the hands of legendary fashion houses, each full of creativity and audacity.
Paris has always been a city characterized by its innovation, its vision towards the future, and its timeless style. Designers from this city are destined to succeed throughout the world. Paris is a city of style and luxury; it is the place to be a fashion designer. That’s why Paris Fashion Week is considered the quintessential fashion week, and why at some point all designers want to exhibit a collection during it.
Over the last few weeks, we have been getting to know the Fall 22 collections of some of the best designers. And today, we saw collections that look to the future of fashion, from two different perspectives, but both made up of beautifully crafted garments.
In the world of fashion, The Lanvin name is synonymous with elegance and luxury. The brand’s founder, Jeanne Lanvin, dressed the most influential women of the 1920s, from actresses to royalty. Her designs had a modernity that managed to captivate society. Her garments were testaments of style and sophistication. The designer took inspiration from everywhere, but mainly from her daughter, Marguerite. She also found inspiration in art, travels, and the society she lived in.
Today, the brand is considered one of the most romantic and feminine around–collections full of elements that give us that aesthetic of finesse and delicacy. Since 2019, Bruno Sialelli has been directing and creating each of the French brand’s collections. Starting with his first collection (Fall 19), he made it clear to us that Lanvin was headed for a bright future. During Paris Fashion Week we got to see Lanvin’s Fall 22 collection, for which Sialelli was inspired by the brand’s roots. The past was reborn in the form of prints inspired by the Art Deco movement, geometric shapes that created intricate jacquard and beading patterns woven into luxurious fabrics. The color palette exuded opulence, thanks to jewel tones such as sapphire, ruby, amber, and turquoise.
Daytime garments such as tailored suits got a sensual, feminine spin in sapphire blue. There were nude jumpsuits with shoulder pads that accentuates the silhouette, yellow knit sweaters combined with a navy-blue coat and trousers, pale yellow capris with sequins, and more luxurious nightwear. We saw silhouettes inspired by the 1920s, such as dresses with sequins in ancient Egyptian-inspired patterns, floral print fitted dresses in crinkled silk, and sheer lace maxi dresses with XL skirts.
It was beautiful collection that was a tribute to the essence of Jeanne Lanvin, her passion for architecture, the beautiful culture of ancient Egypt, and the world of art. All these elements came together in ethereal garments. Bruno Sialelli has designed a magical cosmos, creating an aesthetic that is both ancient and futuristic, and also for the present. Each garment has that same spirit of elevating something as common as a dress to a level of ultimate sophistication, Lanvin’s Fall 22 collection manages to transform the everyday into a surreal fantasy.
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood
This English designer is an icon of rebellion and audacity. Much has happened since the opening of the first boutique at 430 Kings Road. That small place became a mecca for rebellious youth and punk culture. But more than five decades have gone by since that moment and Vivienne Westwood has matured, learned, and grown, not only personally but also in her way of designing. That does not mean that she has lost her rebellious spirit of fighting for good causes and her provocative aesthetic. To date, the brand’s collections have established DNA with the British flag, tartan print, and Scottish kilts. Vivienne Westwood is one of the most important figures in English fashion. She continues to be a bastion for the younger generation that seeks to create a change in the world.
Andreas Kronthaler joined the English designer’s firm in 1989 and has been an essential part of the creative team ever since. It was in 2016 that the firm was renamed as Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, a move that, beyond changing the course of the brand, reaffirmed its indomitable spirit. The collections of this creative duo go beyond beautiful outfits. Each collection is a protest against climate change and other social issues. Both designers have been very outspoken in their activism, something they have managed to incorporate into their collections. In the Fall 22 garments, they continue with their philosophy through the use of sustainable and conscious materials. We find organic cotton t-shirts, capes, jackets, skirts and pants made from recycled polyester, and dresses, shirts and hoodies made from FSC viscose.
The brand’s collections are usually an ode to themselves, Westwood often looking for inspiration within her own history and legacy. Normally, we see references to garments and silhouettes from the brand itself–outfits inspired by Scottish fashion, Victorian-inspired dresses, and bizarre prints. The brand’s catwalks have always been full of drama, transporting viewers to alternate universes. In fact, the styling of each of the collections seems to reflect an aesthetic come out of a post-apocalyptic movie in which clothing serves as protection against extreme temperatures and climates. It may seem like the aesthetic of a distant future, but it is actually dangerously closer than we think. And, that is the goal of designers–to create awareness in viewers and consumers. For them, clothing is a tool that should start a conversation and encourage change.
If we analyze the garments in the collection, we see a mixture of pieces from the athleisure universe fused with a more medieval aesthetic – textiles that resemble chainmail– and a nomadic and bohemian aesthetic. This mixture of different elements generates a new aesthetic, something new, but at the same time, ones that’s not strange for those of us who have been fans of Westwood for a while. Each of the brand’s outfits may seem like its not very functional for everyday use, but if you pay attention to the looks separately, you’ll see that they are beautiful pieces you can wear and combine with your current wardrobe.
Andreas Kronthaler and Vivienne Westwood continue to be the rebels of the industry, two figures who make garments that give people something to talk about. Their designs continue to provoke, generate controversy and endear those with a rebellious soul.