Celestial bodies sheathed in ivory and black with golden brushstrokes. Schiaparelli’s Spring 2022 Couture collection was a spectacle of divine proportions.
Yesterday, I read an interview with Daniel Roseberry on Women’s Wear Daily, in which he talked about the inspiration behind his Schiaparelli Spring 2022 Couture collection and what he wanted to communicate with each of his creations. “I definitely feel pressure to deliver, because I do really have the feeling that people kind of fell in love with the brand again while in lockdown,” Roseberry said in the article for WWD. And I agree with him 100%. Today, all eyes are on this emblematic French brand.
A lot has happened in the last two years and one thing is true: Schiaparelli has become one of the most recognized and relevant brands of the decade. There was the blue cashmere jacket with an XL gold dove brooch and red silk maxi skirt that Lady Gaga wore to President Joe Biden’s inauguration and Bella Hadid in Cannes wearing an XL lung pendant over a dress with a plunging neckline. Then, there was Adele, Cardi B, Beyoncé, Regina King, Dakota Johnson and Emma Corrin. Each of the brand’s outfits have become conversation pieces, creating an aura of opulence and mysticism around the firm and each of its new collections.
Today, after two years, Schiaparelli returned to the catwalks with a Spring 2022 Couture collection, and what better way to do so than by opening Haute Couture week in Paris? Daniel Roseberry delivered stunning, heavenly runway looks. The models, clad in satin and silk garments, paraded like angelic beings, moving ethereally through the corridors of the Petit Palais. For 10 minutes, attendees were able to leave earth and enter a fantastic cosmos full of magical creatures. For Daniel Roseberry, the sky is a place to escape from the chaos of society, and his Spring 2022 Couture collection is without a doubt a small piece of this ethereal divinity that gives meaning to our lives.
Daniel Roseberry believes that each collection should be a small universe independent from the previous one, but that everything should still have the same spirit and DNA. On his thinking behind the Spring 2022 Couture collection, the Texan designer said that he was in a very different state than a year ago, that instead of a feeling of hope he felt uncertainty and exhaustion regarding the situation in the world. “Suddenly, color felt wrong to me. So, did volume. All of the tricks that couture designers use to communicate grandeur and craftsmanship felt hollow,” Roseberry said about Schiaparelli’s Spring 2022 Couture collection.
The collection was full of incredible looks, without a doubt each one an example of the mastery of the artisans and tailors at the atelier located in Place Vendôme. From the very first outfit that came out—an XL Peter Pan collar cinched waist jacket paired with pleated shorts, both in black with white piping, paired with an oversized brimmed hat, spiral earrings in gold and a pair of embroidered suede shoes–to the last black silk dress. Each of these garments was simply extraordinary. This continued the language that the firm has been creating through its latest collections: armor-like busters and characteristic Schiaparelli elements like padlocks, lobsters, eyes, and birds. This new installment from the fashion house managed to preserve the DNA of the brand, not only from Roseberry0s era as Creative Director, but from Elsa Schiaparelli’s herself.
Each outfit that came down the runway seemed to come from another world, one in which the divine merged with the earthly. Each item of clothing left functionality and utilitarianism behind to give way to a surreal beauty. Schiaparelli’s Spring 2022 Couture collection managed to transform art into clothing and elevated it to perfection. Undoubtedly, we not only saw a fashion show but a performance in which art came to life through perfect silhouettes and sumptuous textiles. I’m so glad to have been able to witness it. The first spring 2022 Haute Couture week runway made one thing clear: Schiaparelli is once again paving the way for the future of high fashion.