With the return of in-person shows, this Japanese designer reflects on the core elements of his style: minimalism and the history of the theater. It was a show of sophistication and versatility in black.

One of the shows I like most during PFW is Yohji Yamamoto’s. His runways are always a great example of his tailoring expertise. It is incredible to see how his creativity is able to transform a little black dress into an entire collection and a true style statement for the upcoming season. At 77 years of age, Yamamoto has deconstructed minimalism in a new way and pushed us to open our minds.

To begin with, all the looks were in black, which I loved for its elegance, versatility, and comfort. You can wear these pieces 24/7, in any setting or situation. The looks were paired masculine flats I adored. Yohji Yamamoto returned to the Hôtel de Ville ballroom and led us on a journey through his aesthetics and creativity.

The minimalist, asymmetrical, deconstructed lines of the Japanese designers of the 80s are undoubtedly one of the greatest contributions to current aesthetics. Proof of this is Yamamoto’s SS22 collection. We saw gowns, midis, and minis in fine knits where only a strap, neckline, sleeves, or draping made all the difference. 

Some of the looks that stood out for me were the shirt dresses and pieces inspired by trench coats. The latter were my favorites: structured, with impeccable tailoring and a great sense of style. I also loved the references to punk in the hairstyles and dresses that featured silver brush strokes. Other highlights were the circular structures visible under the dresses at the end of the show and the models handing out flowers to guests. Without a doubt, Yamamoto knows how to separate himself from the noise of PFW and present a collection that resonates for those of us who love fashion the most.



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